Holidays on Aran island - Part 2!
During our previous visits, I was determined to speak Irish to the locals. Although they spoke Irish, they only spoke English to me – in the shops, in the restaurants, in the pub. It really bothered me that I was treated that way. I couldn't understand why the locals wouldn't speak Irish to me. I was disappointed, as I thought Irish would be the normal language of the island.
I understand now. Árainn is crowded with visitors during the summer, boat after boat discharging crowds of passengers non-stop, from the beginning to the end of the season. Tourists come from all over the world, speaking many different languages. English is the main language of world commerce – on Árainn too. In addition, many people working in the services on the island do not speak a word of Irish. For these reasons, the islanders only speak English to visitors. When they talk to each other, they speak Irish. And if they know you well, they speak Irish to you without issue. I think they do not know that they have this habit, and that it is a practical thing that has happened over time, and is now part of their culture.
This trip, we had a great week on the island. We were busy the whole time - between walks, cycling, seeing the sights, and meeting people. Here is a little taste of the fun that we had.
Blowholes
We rented a couple of bikes. Cars are not usually allowed from the mainland. You see a lot of people on bikes on the island, especially when the weather is nice. The weather was not bad during our visit and we walked and cycled every day. Our first adventure was to visit blowholes. There are a few places on the island that have blowholes, and we went to the closest ones. These holes are formed by sea caves that have tunnels up to the surface, and when the sea is rough, they blow water up through the holes. We cycled to the beginning of a path next to the low road and walked down to the bottom of the beach. There was a sudden drop in the limestone at the edge of the shore, and a little further back, the holes were visible in the stone. Looking down into them, you could see the tidal water below them. Every time the waves came in, the water rose in the holes, and blew out through the holes and up into the air. There was a terrible noise to be heard – a crashing and throbbing that occurred between the limestone and the sea below. One can only imagine what it would be like in rough weather.
Dúchathair Fort
Another fine day, we cycled to the start of the path to Dún Dúchathair and walked the steep path up to the fort. Although this fort does not have a visitor centre, unlike Dún Aonghasa, it is just as impressive in some ways.
It is set high on the cliffs above the sea and has a beautiful expansive view along the coast. You can climb over the walls of the fort and enter the inner courtyard. The courtyard is surrounded by the fort on one side and by large cliffs on the other. Spend some time in Dún Dúchathair if you get the chance.
Aran Sheep: Aransheep.ie by Máirtín Ó Flaithearta
On the path to Dún Dúchathair, there is a sign outside a house: Aransheep.ie. We know the owner, Máirtín Ó Flaithearta and he made us very welcome. He showed us around his shop, which is also a museum, in reality. There was a lot to see and Máirtín had yarn from different breeds of sheep. There are Aran sweaters, blankets and caps on display, as well as a collection of different yarns. There are interesting maps and posters on the walls, showing all sorts of things about sheep, including the distribution of sheep in different parts of the world and different breeds of sheep. There is a big screen in the room and also plenty of chairs, for playing a video or giving a lecture. Máirtín is building another room, so that he has more space. We were there for over an hour, and we really enjoyed it. It is well worth a visit if you have the chance.
Midsummer's Eve
Midsummer's Eve is celebrated on July 23rd, a day when bonfires are lit on the island. It is a remnant of an ancient pagan festival, which used to be a midsummer celebration, associated with the fertility of the land and the worship of the sun. The fire is the heart of the celebration as it is a symbol of brightness. There were specific rituals associated with the celebration but I don't have the space here to discuss them.
Anyway, we visited Seán who had a bonfire lit, which he does year after year. People were coming and going all the time, and it was a great social event. There was a nice smell of peat from the fire, and the weather was reasonably good. Seán offered us drinks and snacks, and we had a nice chat.
There were more cars than usual driving around the High Road. As it turned out, the famous actor Patrick Duffy, the star of the TV series Dallas, was on the island, and according to the rumor he was in Bunghabhla. We didn’t stand idly by either. Curiosity got the better of us, and Seán drove us around the island looking at all the other fires. Quite by accident, we drove through Bunghabhla, but there was no sign or report of the star. But of course, it was a great evening, celebrating ancient traditions with the islanders, and searching for Patrick Duffy!
English 
Gaeilge