At the end of the last article, a group of hikers had gathered at the start of the hike at four o’clock this morning, including me. We were about to set off from the south rim to the north rim, dressed in our battle gear. A down jacket, a pair of gloves, a beanie, a scarf, and hiking boots with micro-spikes on. Despite that, I was still shivering with cold.

We started walking down the canyon, our headlamps on. It was a constantly steep still trail, but there were pine logs laid on the trail as steps, like railroad ties. Their main purpose is to stabilize the trail, especially on the steep sections. But hikers also use them, although they are sometimes far apart.

I didn’t know it at the time, but the trail layout is great in terms of rest stops and water. There are rest stops and/or water stops every two and a half kilometers on the way down to the Colorado. You hike another three and a half kilometers, and after crossing the Silver Bridge, you reach Phantom Ranch– a cure for sore eyes and a place with all the amenities – including water, food and drink, hot meals, and even lodging.

I brought five liters of water with me on the hike, which I didn’t need. It’s not good to carry too much weight. But I was a rookie hiker and still had a lot to learn about hiking. First of all, it’s not good to carry extra weight. Secondly, you don’t drink as much going down as you do coming up – especially if it’s not too hot going down. Thirdly, if there is water available along the way, that is also worth considering. But it is better to be overly cautious than to be careless!

After a while, when we were quite warm, we took off our jackets. After another while, when there was no ice left on the path, we took off our micro-spikes. Then, when the sun came up, we also took off our headlamps. The temperature was around 20ºC and we were all quite comfortable. We took a short break at the third stop to go to the toilet and to refill our water if necessary. We had a quick bite there and then continued on to the river. It was 28ºC when we reached the Colorado. It was no longer comfortable, but the temperature did not stop rising either. When we reached Phantom Ranch, it was 35ºC – damn! Then, we entered the restaurant where the air conditioner was working hard. A nice, fresh breeze blew in our direction, and it was nice to be able to cool off for a while, while sipping on iced lemonade. The real hike would begin after the break!

But before that – I haven’t said anything about the views from the rim. In fact, that would be hard to do properly. Suffice it to say that the views are almost supernatural. Deep tunnels have been cut through the rock several kilometers down to the Colorado River, a river that is still working its magic. Starting out on the Bright Angel Trail from the rim, you feel the grandeur of the universe, with the Milky Way clearly visible high in the sky. As the sun rises, the stars gradually disappear and the beauty of the massive walls around you is illuminated, as you descend, step by step, into the view itself. It's like walking back through the layers of time itself. The different rocks have different colors:

• Kaibab Limestone (limestone formation) – greyish white, 270 million years old
• Toroweap Formation (mixed formation) – greyish brown, 273 million years old
• Coconino Sandstone (sandstone formation) – sandy white, 275 million years old
• Hermit Shale (shale formation) – dark red, 280 million years old
• Supai Group (mixed formation) – red to brown range, 285–315 million years old
• Redwall Limestone (sandstone formation) – blue grey – red colour comes from iron clay in
• Muav Limestone (sandstone formation) – greyish green, 505 million years old
• Bright Angel Shale (shale formation) – olive green, 515 million years old
• Tapeats Sandstone (sandstone formation) – golden brown, 525 million years old

Layer upon layer of rock emerges sharply, its strong colors: gray, brown, white, red, blue, green, and gold, all constantly changing with the light. As you approach the inner canyon, sharp peaks and natural towers with tall, tapered spires loom above you, like ancient temples, shaped by the mighty waters of the Colorado. And then, finally, the majestic river itself is revealed. You have left the ordinary world on the edge and gradually entered the nethermost parts of a different world altogether, full of natural magic that is seen nowhere else. It has a profound effect on you. Although you feel very small, your mind is expanded at the same time. You realize that this is also a spiritual experience, and you are completely in tune with nature here at the bottom of the canyon. …More to come.

My wife and I went on a pilgrimage to the Grand Canyon in Arizona last week. In fact, it’s become a regular part of our lives now – we go there every year at the same time. Sometimes, it’s hard to find the time, but we try our best to go there despite the difficulties of life.

Why, you say? Let me answer your question with another question: have you ever been there? If you have, it’s easier to explain. If not, I would recommend you go there if you can – and I promise you won’t regret it. There’s no such vast beauty to be seen in Ireland. The reward is worth the trouble. And if you go there, you can visit Vegas on the same trip! And yet the story doesn’t end there.

The Size of the Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Sixty million years ago, the Rocky Mountains and the Colorado Plateau, of which the Grand Canyon is a part, were formed by tectonic activity. Gradually, the Colorado River carved its way through the ancient rock, digging ever deeper.

Today, it is a steep-sided canyon – 446 km long, up to 29 km wide, and 1,857 metres deep. It covers a vast area of 5,000 km² – that’s half a million hectares.

That’s not easy to imagine. To put it in context: imagine Counties Kilkenny, Waterford and Carlow combined – and every inch of it covered by one deep canyon. And you could almost hide two Carrantuohills in its depths from top to bottom.

While there are other great canyons in the world, the Grand Canyon is the most famous. Around 5 million people visit it every year. It’s an awesome sight to behold from the rim. Most visitors head to the South Rim – it’s not as remote as the North Rim.

Staying at the Bright Angel Lodge

When I first saw the Canyon, my eyes almost popped out of my head in awe. Seeing it on Instagram or TV is one thing – but experiencing it in person is another. It takes your breath away.

After our first visit to the South Rim, my wife and I were completely captivated. There’s magic – not just in the canyon itself, but also in the quiet village on the rim (Grand Canyon Village). We love staying in the village at the Bright Angel Hotel – in a small log cabin on the edge of the canyon.

The hotel has shops, a restaurant and a pub – everything you could possibly need. You can have a lovely dinner, and then take a walk as the sun sets – perfect subject for your next selfie!

Preparations for the Crossing

After several years staying on the rim, we heard about an exceptional hike that a friend of ours had done – a complete crossing from the south rim to the north rim, about 40 km in length.

The descent is not the most challenging – it is the steep ascent that is, especially in the heat of the season. When I heard about this hike, and despite the difficulties he mentioned, I asked to go with them – and they accepted me without delay.

I started training seriously. There were mountains nearby and I did a long hike every weekend – between the altitude and the desert heat.

Oddly enough: In the Grand Canyon, you can experience two climates in one day – freezing at the top of the canyon, with desert heat up to 40°C at the bottom. Therefore, comprehensive preparation is required – layers of clothing, a food strategy, and above all, water management.

If you are going ‘rim-to-rim’ – that is, from one rim to the other, you will be on the trail for up to 15 hours. You need to have a plan for hydration – how much water to carry, where the fill points are, and how to balance your weight. 3–4 liters is essential, but 4 liters weighs 4 kilograms.

The Big Day: Crossing the Canyon           

I met up with the group of hikers later in the year as we had planned. There were about ten of us. We spent a few days at the north rim first to get used to the altitude – 2,500 meters.

At four o’clock in the morning, by the light of the stars, we met up and set off. The temperature was below freezing at the time, but we were prepared. Dressed appropriately, we set foot on the famous Bright Angel Trail – and into the Grand Canyon.